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Diamonds in the rough are as ordinary as any regular stone, sometimes uglier. But once these are cut into shapes into the diamond jewelry that we are familiar with, the transformation is simply magical.

Diamonds are usually cut to accentuate their brilliance, fire and color.

Cuts

Diamonds are mostly cut into familiar round shapes (round brilliant cut). Those that are not are known as ‘fancy cuts’.

Fancy cuts are the baguette (like the French loaf of bread), the marquise, the princess (square), briolette (rose cut), and the pear cut.

Today, newer cuts are introduced into the industry, perhaps to liven it up. These include the ‘cushion’, the ‘radiant’ (like princess cuts, only with rounded edges), and the ‘Asscher’ cut (square emerald cut).

Fancy-colored diamonds are mostly cut in these new styles. However, these fancy cuts are not held to the strict standards of diamond cuts.

These precise standards were set by mathematician and gem enthusiast Marcel Tolkowsky. He calculated the exact angles and dimensions of the diamond’s facets (surfaces) to reflect the most light and gives the diamond its famed brilliance.

Fashion

Like any other man-made ornament, diamond cuts are also heavily influenced by the fashion of the day. In the Art Deco period, the baguette (it accentuates a diamond’s luster but plays down the fire) was the favorite.

Today, the princess cut is gaining popularity, mostly among younger women. It is a favorite among diamond cutters because it uses most of the crystal in the original stone.

Since the past decades, there had been modifications of diamond cuts. These new cuts are seen to be more on trying to adapt a brand differentiation rather than actual improvements.

Shapes

The round diamond is the most popular today. It has 57 facets (or 58 including the culet). By far, it displays the most fire and scintillation among all.

Cut into a square with 90 degrees angle on each corner, the princess cut brings out a tremendous amount of brilliance, second only to the round.

Heart-shaped diamonds are the most sentimental of all. It is also the hardest to find.

Radiant diamonds are rectangles with rounded corners. What make it special are the patterns of the facets that makes it look like cracked ice.

Invented in the 60s, the oval diamond is similar to the round brilliant, except for the ovate shape. One can see a visible “bow-tie” on top.

Designed in 1902, the Asscher is often called the square emerald cut. It has cropped corners that give it a distinctive elegance.

The emerald cut, rectangular or square, has beveled corners. It has a window-like transparency giving it a classic beauty.

The marquise has 56 facets, elongated and has pointed ends. Reportedly, it had been inspired by the smile of the Marquise de Pompadour and created for Louis XIV.

The pear cut looks more like a teardrop. It shows off best as a pendant or on earrings.

The cushion cut or the candlelight has larger facets and rounded corners to increase their sparkle under candlelight.

The corners of a triangle diamond may be pointed or rounded. The body shape is defined by the cutter or the stone’s characteristics.

By far, one can see that the many shapes of diamond jewelry are all geared to accentuate the beauty of the stone, its own unique elegance. Which one would look best on you?

In diamond jewelry, the cut is one characteristic considered to be the most important. With a good cut, the quality of the final gem can offset a lower color quality or a generally poorer clarity.

On the other hand, a D-color (a very high rating), Internally Flawless stone will not live up to its high promise if the cut is poor. The inferior quality of the cut would reduce all of the diamond’s brilliance, sparkle and scintillation.

History

Ever since the beginning of diamond cutting in the mid-1300s, the techniques had evolved slowly through the years to what it is now today, which includes the use of lasers. It was in the 1600s when they found out that more facets meant more brilliance.

It was with the Single cut that the modern and popular Brilliant cut of today was founded. The modern round brilliant cut diamond had evolved into a round outline, symmetrical triangular and kite-shaped facets, a table and a small culet, which was optional.

Cutting

Diamond cutting, though done in around 5 basic steps, is actually a very long and intense process. For the layman, knowing the lengthy procedures would afford one to appreciate the work done.

Stone shapes

The natural shape of the original rough stone is the arbiter of the final shape of the finished diamond jewelry. Naturally oblong-shaped stones become marquises, ovals or pear shapes.

There might be near-perfect crystal shapes and they will more likely to become princess cuts or some other square cuts. Some large stones sometimes take a longer time to plan because of the fear of crystal wastage. They sometimes produce two gems out of one rough stone.

Planning

The first crucial step in making diamond jewelry is planning when the rough stones are being subjected to lengthy scrutiny. The planner (his only work) decides where to mark the stone to fashion out a profitable polished gem or gems.

Mistakes like incorrect markings and others can cost as high as thousands of dollars. The planner decides the size, clarity, and the direction of the crystal when marking. Cleaving in a wrong position can shatter a diamond stone and make it worthless.

Cleaving or sawing

After the planner’s markings, the stone is either manually cleaved or sawed. The saw is a diamond-coated rotary one, or a laser.

Bruting.

Bruting is the process where the worked-on diamond is being spun on a rotating lathe and another diamond is forced against it to gradually form a rounded outline at first.

Polishing

This is the final stage of the cutting process where the diamond is given its finished proportions.

The first polishing stage is blocking. This establishes the diamond’s basic symmetry. It is here where the first 17 or 18 facets are made, creating a single cut. For very small diamonds, the process for them ends here.

‘Brillianteering’

The brillianteering stage is next for the larger diamonds where their final facets are polished. This will determine their brilliance and their fire, whether they will be dazzling beauties or dull stones.

For the cutter, the driving force is always to create a diamond jewelry masterpiece.

Diamond jewelry had always been regarded to be on top of the list as the world’s most-desired gem, although a few would like to dispute it. Nevertheless, the diamond mystique still works its charms on people for them to want to own a piece, or at least to know more about it.

After centuries of fascinating stories and myths, here are the bare facts all about the world’s most wanted gem.

The bare essentials

Most people would certainly have heard about diamonds. They may have heard how precious they are as jewels. Some may have heard, too, random bits and pieces about the qualities that make them fascinating and attractive to people.

Let us take you to a short guided tour and introduce you to the essential parts (and other aspects) of a diamond for your information. It is then up to you to discover what make them special as gems.

Table

This is the first surface (surfaces in gems are called facets) that you will see. It is on top of the diamond, and is the largest area in the whole stone’s body.

Crown

This is the upper part of the diamond just above the girdle that includes the table and the bezel facets around. (The girdle is the outer edge of the diamond forming the stone’s total width around it.)

The crown slopes down to the girdle and this is called the crown angle. It passes and intersects the stone’s bezel facets. (The bezel is the metal holding the stone around the girdle.)

This crown angle helps in the dispersion of light, called fire, in a diamond. It also helps to enhance the diamond’s brilliance.

Girdle

As pointed out, this is the narrow band encircling the widest part of the diamond. This part of the stone is sometimes faceted (tiny polished surfaces) and some are not. Some jewelers have the diamond’s certificate number inscribed in laser on the girdle.

Pavilion

This is the bottom part of the diamond, essentially the facets just below the girdle, all leading to the culet. This is where lights come in and is reflected out of the stone’s table.

Culet

This is the pointed end at the bottom of the stone which may be faceted (a tiny polished surface at the endpoint) to protect from chipping.

In the early days, large faceted culets were common in diamonds, especially the Old European or Old Mine cuts. Modern diamonds have very small culets or none at all.

Other essentials

The above are only the basic physical parts of the diamond. But there are other considerations that make it the most-coveted stone today. This is where the other aspects of the stone would make it stand out and differ from the others.

Depth

This is the stone’s measurement from the culet to the table. The stone’s depth is responsible for the correct angling and height for light to enter and be reflected back to the viewer in a most fascinating manner.

These flashes of reflected light are commonly referred to as sparkle. The intensity of this reflected bunch of light beams to the top of the diamond is called brilliance. When a diamond moves, there are flashes of color reflected from within, and it is called fire.

Symmetry

This is another important gauge in a diamond’s desirability because this is an indicator of the stone’s quality. Misalignments (facet angles, polish, lengths, etc) can diminish some of the diamond jewelry’s other near-perfect qualities.